Climbing in the Rain

The Case for All-Weather Climbing

1735 words/15 minutes

“In the Golden Age of climbing, before the ascendency of the rock jock, no climber worth his salt would allow a little rain to deprive him of a days outing. A pint, or six, at the end of a day on the rock is to be encouraged. But it must be earned.” Totter -A Climbers Creed

For the past year I’ve managed to go climbing on almost every club trip I’ve attended, but often I’ve been a part of the only party to climb, on at least one of the days. Usually, after a less than promising start, the weather has turned out fine, with at most a light sprinkle of rain. Only once have I climbed in close to miserable conditions (with wind blown drizzle in Stanage) and then, with four other members, we had a great day climbing V Diffs in walking boots. And we had one of the greatest crags in Britain to ourselves. Once, British climbers would go out for the day in less than perfect conditions. Why do we now only climb on dry rock with no threat of rain?

Perhaps a look at old-school climbing style might throw some light on this question.

Dave Spart remembers one of his trips. “We hitch-hiked to North Wales in a milk cart, and after 15 pints at ‘Ye Olde Pigstye’ (the only pub that allowed climbers in the door) nine of us wild camped in a two person army surplus tent on Orendus Fawr. It rained all night, drenching us completely, so we were ready to get out of the tent in the morning for a go at Manky Crack. There were the nine of us on fifteen feet of rope we’d found in a cow barn…” [Thank you Dave, that’ll do for now.]

This highlights some of the reasons so much climbing was done in the “Golden Age.” Climbers were happy to leave an over-crowded, and often sodden, tent, they had no transport of their own and, badly hungover, the only free activity whilst waiting for the pub to reopen was to be found on the local crags.

By contrast, a modern climber drives in luxury to a full-facilities campsite, spends a comfortable (and generally sober) night in a waterproof expedition tent, actually sleeping in a dry sleeping bag on a comfy mattress. Next day, inclement weather suggests innumerable possibilities; with gear shopping, cappuccino, and the local climbing wall looming large. (And whilst not at all deriding the progress made in climbing comfort and convenience, too many options can make it hard to see the rock in front of your face).

Secondly, most people nowadays start climbing on a climbing wall and few spend as much time climbing outdoors as in. And climbing outdoors can be a shock after the comforts of an indoor wall. It is bad enough having to deal with route-finding on an outdoor climb, but even finding the start of the route can be an ordeal. And that is just the beginning of your problems. The bloody rock is always different and it’s half covered in vegetation. The routes often aren’t doable in a single rope length and you have to multi-pitch, faffing about setting up belays and transferring kit; there are no bolts so you have to place your own gear; there are tricky descents, night-fall approaches…. It all seems quite enough without having to deal with the WEATHER too. Going out in inclement weather simply does not compute for one brought up on the comforts of the Castle [east London’s premier climbing wall].

Thirdly, there is a tendency nowadays for the unsportsmanlike behaviour of “training”. Modern climbers attend gyms, and run or cycle regularly, as well as frequenting climbing walls. In the best British tradition, training took place in the pub.

Fourthly, there is a natural inclination to assess one’s improvement by the highest grade one can climb, and see a speedy progress through the grades as a solid mark of progress. But it is easy to get overly concerned with grades. When climbing in imperfect (wet, slippery, slimy…) conditions you will need to climb at an easier grade. If you are climbing at VS and dream of leading HVS, it may seem frustrating to climb a V Diff in the rain. But if climbing is about challenge and problem solving, you can find plenty of both on a wet V Diff. And, you will improve your climbing as you develop new techniques for the manky conditions. This will require you using your feet differently and sometimes managing to get up when you don’t trust your feet at all. If you want to improve on rock, you’ll do it faster on the rock (wet as well as dry) than on an indoor wall.

Benighted in a hailstorm with Fortesque on le Grande Fromage at Brie, Totter is credited with remarking that it reminded him of many enjoyable weekends climbing Tryfan in Welsh conditions. But it is not all pain and suffering. Here are just a few recent examples of great days in the dank and troublesome outdoors.

Last year Richard, Ken and I went to look at Wheelbarrow [a crag in the Lake District- an original home of UK climbing] after a night of rain. When we arrived at the crag, the rock was wet and the weather doubtful. We decided to wait and see, and sat chatting under the crag for an hour before Ken said, “I think its dry enough to climb.” We then had a fine outing on a pleasant climb, made doubly enjoyable by knowing we had squeezed in a days climbing by the skin of our teeth.

[The Lake District is 6 hours drive from London, and the club visits this part just once a year]

On the way to Scotland for the Easter meet, we stopped off in the Lakes. Richard, Jon and I climbed again at Wheelbarrow, on a cold day, on freezing rock. We climbed in hiking boots, Richard doing the early crux pitches. I led through and sat on the top of the crag, belaying the others up, with fine views up the valley. I watched a snow flurry develop with exquisitely swirling flakes which were spaced widely enough that I could see through them. Marvellously, as I belayed, the wind whipped and whirled whorls of snow up the face- allowing me to actually see the wind!

Most recently, on the Cornwall trip, Richard and I were rained on under Bosigran and decided to return later (encouraged by having, between us, left a complete rain kit at camp). But we couldn’t quite leave and sat on the grass half way to the car park until we noticed a patch of blue sky. There followed a fine, rainless, if windy, day on that superb crag.

So, I advocate a return to the traditional climbing style of yesteryear. Climb, whether threat of rain or shine. Not because that was how I used to do it, as I too have been a fair weather climber until my recent conversion. When living in Vancouver, to avoid a wasted drive on doubtful weather days, I used to phone the McDonald’s in Squamish, which usefully overlooked Canada’s finest crags. Deceitfully claiming to be a regular customer, I would ask whether it was raining, and if they could see anyone climbing. If it was raining we went another day. On trips to Joshua Tree, California’s off-season crag of choice, on wet or windy days we would head to town for Margarita’s, a Mexican meal, and the hot-springs.

Since returning to England, with the crags so much further than the hour long drive I was used to in Vancouver, or the 5 minute walk in Joshua Tree, and committed to a weekend away, I have been disappointed by the number of trips when I didn’t even climb once all weekend. Several other members share my fixation on climbing, rather than joining the ardent walkers, and there is now a small group within the club -the all weather climbers.

Often we’ve been the only club party to climb on a day rain threatened or was predicted. and most of those days have turned out rain-free.

Some more reasons to climb on marginal days:

-You get to climb on the classics without the crowds

-You will be learning techniques essential in mountaineering, where changeable weather and wet rock occur in all seasons

-It is perhaps best not to have your first experience climbing wet rock when caught out by rain half way up your first HVS [5.10]

-If climbing is about problem solving your way up a bit of rock. You can certainly have a challenging time climbing a damp V Diff in walking boots

-It’ll improve your scrambling

-You’ll enjoy climbing on a sunny day even more!

-You’ll find out more about the many different types of rock by climbing them under a variety of conditions

-You’ll develop new techniques to deal with times/rock types where friction is poor

-There is a great deal of satisfaction in squeezing in a great days climbing between two rainy nights in the tent

-A classic V Diff with swirling cloud and the occasional blustery shower takes on the air of the North Face of the Eiger!

-By not just climbing on sunny days you get to climb a great deal more often and may be surprised at how many days it looks as if it will rain but doesn’t (or doesn’t much!)

Surely, if the intrepid walkers can set off in all weathers, towards wind-blown summits, we climbers can risk a damp day on the crag. Oh, and I’d appreciate it if you’d drop into the pub after lunch and tell me how it went.